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Compatibility

>Forks

Do I need a 1” or 1 1/8” fork?

You can measure the diameter of the steerer tube of your current fork, which comes down out of your frame where your fork blades meet above the wheel. This is the part that runs up into your head tube. Most mountain bikes require 1 1/8".  To be sure, simply measure the diameter of the tube, the distance from one side of the outside wall of the tube to the other. If you are unsure you can always call our sales department.

What else do I need to know to determine fork compatibility for my bike?

Older forks are usually threaded. If your bike is newer, it may be outfitted with a threadless style fork. If this is the case, you need only worry about the diameter of the steered tube (1-, 1 1/8, 1 ¼ or 1 ½ -inch). You can measure this by loosening and removing your stem from the fork and measuring the outer diameter of the steerer directly.  Threadless forks need to use a threadless headset and stem. Threaded forks use a threaded headset and a stem with a quill.

In a threadless system the fork's steerer tube will pass through the head tube of your bike and the stem will clamp on to the portion of the steerer tube that rises above the headset.  In a threaded system the fork's steerer tube goes into the head tube but does not pass through the top of your headset.  In this system the stem (somewhat "L" shaped) inserts directly into the headset and fork's steerer tube.

The two systems are not compatible and you must use a threadless stem with a threadless fork, and a threaded stem with a threaded fork.

Threadless forks generally come with a steerer tube that is a standard length and must be cut once you determine the proper length for your bike.

Will I need any other parts to install my new fork?

All the new forks are set up for V-brakes and do not have a cable hanger on the brake arch.  Since cantilever style brakes will not work without the cable hanger on the brake arc, you may need to upgrade to V-brakes levers.  As long as you ordered the correct size fork, everything else should transfer over.

Is my fork threaded or threadless?

In a threadless system the fork's steerer tube will pass through the head tube of your bike and the stem will clamp on to the portion of the steerer tube that rises above the headset.  In a threaded system the fork's steerer tube goes into the head tube but does not pass through the top of your headset.  In this system the stem (somewhat "L" shaped) inserts directly into the headset and fork's steerer tube.

If your stem is threadless so is your fork.  Older forks are usually threaded. If your bike is newer, it may be outfitted with a threadless style fork. If this is the case, you need only worry about the diameter of the steerer tube (1-, 1 1/8, 1 ¼, 1 ½ -inch). You can measure this by loosening and removing your stem from the fork and measuring the outer diameter of the steerer directly. Threadless forks need to use a threadless headset and stem. Threaded forks use a threaded headset and a stem with a quill.

Do you sell threaded forks?

No, all our forks are threadless.  You can easily convert your bike to threadless by installing a new headset and new stem.  Then you can get a threadless fork.

What kind of fork can I install on my bike?

The first thing you need to do is to determine what size of headset you have. To do this, measure the diameter of the steerer tube, which comes up out of where your fork blades meet above the wheel. This is the part that runs up into your head tube. Most mountain bikes require 1 1/8", while 1" is standard for most road applications. If you are unsure you can always call us and well be glad to help you.

This measurement, which is usually 1", 1 1/8" or 1 1/4", and will determine what fork you, can mount on your bike. The standard size for '02 mountain forks is 1 1/8". The new forks will also require a "threadless" headset that will fit your head tube size and a new stem.

The new "threadless" system has several advantages over the old threaded system, as it is a lighter weight and stiffer connection, meaning that you will have better control of your front end. Because of the complexity of mounting the new headset and cutting the new fork steerer, it is recommended that you have your local shop install your new fork for you.

We have several headsets and stems available on our web site when you are ready to proceed with that part of your conversion.

How will a new fork affect my frame geometry and the overall ride of my bike?

Before purchasing a fork, carefully consider the geometry of your frame. Unless your frame was designed specifically for a suspension fork, adding a shock with a large amount of travel will dramatically change the handling and geometry of your bike. If you do want to add a suspension fork, consider one with a travel of 80mm or less.


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>Brakes

What kind of brakes are compatible with my frame/fork?

Choosing the right brakes for your bike used to be simple - every bike had cantilever brakes! These days, things are a bit more complicated, but we have also have the benefit of having many more braking options. If you're shopping for a new frame or fork, make certain that it's compatible with the brakes you plan to use. If you're just looking to upgrade your existing brakes, make sure you order a compatible replacement.

You can identify the types of brakes you need by inspecting your frame and fork.  Depending on the make and model, you may have cantilever (v-brake) bosses, disc brake bosses, or both.  If you are unsure what will work with your bike, call our sales department and we will be glad to help.

The most common type of brakes are still V-brakes. These brakes are typically cable operated and work by squeezing brake pads to the rim. In order to use V-brakes, you need to have the appropriate braze-ons on your frame and fork. Most bikes are equipped with V-brakes and braze-ons as they come from the factory, and can be easily upgraded to different V-brakes if you desire. Any type of hub can be used on a bike with V-brakes.
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>Drive Train Components

Do I need to use an 8-speed chain with 8-speed chain rings and a 9-speed chain with 9-speed chainrings?

9-speed rings have thinner teeth and the offset of the tooth creates a narrower space from the teeth of one ring to the teeth of the next. Using the incorrect ring type can cause over-shifts, under-shifts, unsuccessful shifts, skipping, chain suck when the chain gets caught between rings, chain suck when the chain won't let go of the ring.  Always use the appropriate chain and chainring combination for flawless shifting.

Can I use an 8-speed derailleur with a 9-speed cassette?

Absolutely. As long as it can handle the spread on the cassette, you'll be fine. All reasonably modern derailleurs will handle this. The derailleur is a "dumb" component - it does what the shifter tells it to do.


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>Brakes and Cables

Are there cables made specifically for different types of braking systems?

Yes, some cables are made specifically for disk brake (mechanical disc) systems – Avid’s Full Metal Jacket cables, for example.  In most cases, these cables can be used for V-brake systems as well, but the full benefits of their unique designs may not be realized.

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