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| >Pedal Installation How do I install my new pedals? You can use a 15mm wrench for all pedals, some of them also allow for a 8mm Allen wrench to be used. One thing to keep in mind is that the left pedal is reverse threaded, so you screw it counter-clockwise to tighten, and clockwise to loosen. How do I install my new clipless pedals? Fitting the pedals are easy... unscrew the old and screw in the new. Remember that he left pedal has a left hand thread. Use a pedal wrench on the flat portion and/or an Allen/hex key (if there's a machined recess to accept one). And grease the threads first! There's small hex bolts at the leading edge of each SPD (or clone) pedal. These control the tension (the force you need to overcome to "get out"). When first riding with clipless pedals you will want to have less tension on the pedal. This means your untrained feet won't be fighting to get out during the learning phase, which means you'll fall over less often. Put a small dab of lube on each pedal. (There is NO adjustment on Time ATACs) Bring the Allen/hex wrench with you, as the cleat will loosen the first couple of times you ride. Go Back >Cleats & Compatibility Do cleats come with pedals or shoes? Cleats will come with the pedals and not the shoes. All clipless pedals will include the cleats. What is SPD? It stands for: SHIMANO PEDAL DYNAMICS and it describes all of Shimano's current mountain bike pedals and the shoe sole drilling that their cleats need. What is different about mountain cleats? Mountain cleats are typically recessed into the sole of your shoe so that you can still walk or hike comfortably and safely with the cleats installed. On mountain rides, you may need to hike through particularly rocky, steep, or technical sections, and road shoes/cleats are designed with that in mind. The most common cleat mounting system used on mountain pedals and shoes is the SPD pattern. SPD-compatible shoes can be identified by the presence of two parallel slots on the bottom of the shoe. Almost all mountain bike clipless pedal systems are compatible with shoes using the SPD pattern. Note: the fact that two pedal systems use the same cleat mounting does not necessarily imply that they are compatible. For example, the Shimano M959, Crank Bros. Eggbeater, and Wellgo WPD-813 pedals each use the SPD cleat mounting pattern. However, the cleats themselves are not interchangeable. What is different about road cleats? Road cleats are typically bolted onto the bottom of compatible shoes, and once installed, can be awkward or difficult to walk with. These shoes are not made for walking – they’re for riding, and it is assumed that you will not be doing a lot of hike-a-bike on road rides. There are three main types of cleats used on road shoes. The first, the LOOK pattern, can be identified by its 3 hole drilling in a triangle shape. The second, the SPD/R pattern, can be identified by the presence of two slots in the middle of the shoe. Finally, the TIME pattern uses four holes for cleat mounting. Although most road shoes are compatible with both LOOK and SPD/R mounting, you should always confirm compatibility prior to ordering . Go Back >Clipless Pedals What is the advantage of clipless pedals? Clipless pedals work the same way ski bindings do, giving you are more solid interface with your bike. Even more than toe straps when they are tightened down, they let you use all of the power in your legs, both on the down-stroke and on the up-stroke. Once you get used to them, clipless pedals will give you more power in your total pedal stroke, as without clips, you only have power when you push down on the crank. With clips, you'll have power through the entire revolution of the crank. You can go faster, farther and climb better with less energy. Of course, clipless pedals take a little getting used to, but once you’ve used them, it’s unlikely you’ll ever go back to clips. Clipless pedals are actually easier to get in and out of than old-fashioned clips. You just position your foot over the pedal and twist and push -"click" and voila - you're "clipped in". To take out your foot, simply rotate and pull up- you'll hear that "click" sound. It's a motion that will come naturally with more riding experience. Most clipless pedals have a various degrees of "float", which is the amount of distance you foot can rotate while you are "clipped in". This takes stress off of your knee while you are pedaling. What is the easiest way to disengage from clipless pedals? There is definitely a learning curve when you are adjusting to a new set of pedals, especially if you have never used clipless before. Just turn your ankle slightly away from your bike and your cleat will click right out of the pedal. After a few rides, you won’t even have to think about this – it will just become second nature. Any tips for clicking out of clipless pedals? First of all you must keep them clean for them to release easily and consistently. Spray them off with a hose and take an old toothbrush to them to get all the muck out and keep the pins and springs lubed with some thicker oil. Spray the places where the cleats touch with a wax based lubricant like White Lightening chain lube. Look after them before every ride. Also, most pedals have adjustments for release and retention (Time ATACs do not) and these should be adjusted quite loose when first learning to use clipless pedals. Back the adjustments way off and only tighten them more if you pop out unexpectedly. Give them some time before you tighten them as your leg muscles will realize that they have a job to do in keeping the foot stable and it doesn't always take a set of tight springs to hold you into the pedals. If the pedals are adjusted loose enough, you won't be able to stay in them, never mind not being able to get out of them! So let's not hear anymore of this "help, I feel trapped in my pedals" stuff. Before you take your first ride, try the pedals in the driveway or on the lawn while holding onto something. Practice turning the heel out to make the release at all positions of the pedal circle. Like any new skill, it has to be practiced many times before it becomes an automatic reaction. And when you're crashing and banging over rocks and roots and you have to get your foot down in a hurry you don't have time to think. Try releasing each foot and use both sides of each pedal just to make sure the release tensions are about the same. You should have to use very little force to release the foot. Practice clipping in and out a few dozen times. When you go for your first ride, choose a grassy park. Ride around while practicing continuously and do lots of stops and starts. If they’re so great, why doesn’t everyone use clipless pedals? The choice to use clipless pedals or not should really depend on the type of riding you do. Many downhillers and freeriders choose to use platform pedals instead, for safety and ease of maneuverability on technical descents. By contrast most cross-country riders, and the vast majority of roadies, will go with the clipless option for efficient pedaling through flats and climbs. What is “pedal float”? It means the amount of rotation you can do with your foot before you start to engage the release mechanism. Since we're talking rotation, float is in degrees. Generally speaking, float is limited by the release springs in the pedal mechanism. The reason float is used is that the body doesn't spin the cranks like a machine. There's an interplay between your hip, knee and ankle that allows you to use your many muscles efficiently. So as your knees go up and down, the complicated system of muscles and tendons is constantly adjusting. For most people, this translates into some foot rotation as the crank completes a revolution. It's related to individual body mechanics - that's why no one can tell you how much float you need. Shimano SPDs with “standard" cleats have 4 degrees of float, Time ATACs offer 10 or 15 degrees. Warning signs of inappropriate “float” for you are usually knee pain (barring seat height issues) and a feeling of not being comfortable/clipping out unknowingly. Skill only plays a role regarding float in the acclimatization stages of learning to use clipless pedals. If you're happy with your pedals, you don't have to concern yourself with float. If you're having pain, test ride a pair with more (Time ATACs, for example) to see if it alleviates the problem. Go Back >Road vs. Mountain Pedals What’s the difference between clipless pedals for road vs. mountain bikes? Typically, you can click into road pedals from only one side – that is, they have a “right-side-up”. There are exceptions to this rule. Mountain pedals will give you two options for clicking in – often they are identical top and bottom – so you don’t have to look down at all when you’re clicking in. Some mountain pedals give you even more options; Crank Brothers Egg Beaters, for example, have four points of insertion. Go Back |
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Pedals
